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Atlantic Crossing

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Ashley, Nov - Dec 2020

All the photos in this article are available for sale at our store or by enquiry.

Friends who liked my Atlantic Cheese Sandwich recipe will be happy to know it is repeated at the bottom of this Expedition

2020 was not generally considered a good year by most people in most parts of the world. It was the onset of Covid-19, illness and deaths, borders closed, airlines grounded, and, in most countries, lockdowns or severe social restrictions. Of course this was the same year that my wife and I needed to travel across the planet from Australia to Sweden to attend to some important matters. Many permissions were required and it took 6 months before we were allowed passage.

A week before we left in November I got a message from a good Swedish friend asking me to meet him and a couple of others in The Canary Islands if I wanted to help them sail across the Atlantic. It sounded crazy! Surely the world wouldn't let me travel from Sydney to the Canary Islands, then sail to Cape Verde, across the Atlantic to St Vincent and Grenadines in the Caribbean, and then go onto Sweden. It would never happen, I thought. I told my yacht friends though that I was on my way and I started to knock over every obstacle put before me. Suddenly I was with my friends on the Canary Islands and at the start of this amazing adventure.

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Tenerife, Canary Islands

Aerial view of Tenerife as I flew in to meet up with the team

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View from Las Galletas, Tenerife, Canary Islands of the setting sun breaking through the storm clouds to light up the volcanic foot hills of Del Teide, Spain's highest mountain at 3,700m

Canary Islands was quite a surprise for me. Very different to the lush tropical islands I have experienced in Asia and the Pacific and the glacial rounded granite islands of Scandinavia. These islands appeared desert-like to me with its volcanic landscape sparsely vegetated with cacti and low bushes. 

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Colourful fishing fleet at Las Galletas, Tenerife, Canary Islands

Unfortunately we didn't get to explore the islands much because we were busy preparing the yacht for the first leg of the trip - to Cape Verde 1,500kms south along the African coast. 

Sailing - Canary Islands to Cape Verde

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Bottle nosed dolphins at the bow of our buddy boat as we sailed down the African coast about 200kms from shore

The sail to Cape Verde was quite rough - large swell, choppy waves, cloudy, windy and cold. The six day sail to Cape Verde was the longest any of us had sailed previously at one time. The rough conditions, around the clock for four days, had us apprehensive about the following leg of trip, the crossing of the Atlantic, which may take anywhere from 15 to 40 days. It is amazing though how the spirits are lifted by the wildlife we encountered - petrels effortlessly skimming over the wavetops following the contours of the swell, schools of flying fish forming shimmering silver veils over the water, and best of all twice being joined by large pods of Bottlenose Dolphins - one pod with over a hundred dolphins. 

The weather and seas improved when we got to Cape Verde. We were looking forward to seeing land for the first time in six days. We were searching the horizon for a tiny spec of land and then to our surprise, out of the haze and cloud there is suddenly a massive mountain towering over us. Land!

Sao Vincent, Cape Verde

The shock with these islands were their size - their height to be precise - made to look even taller because they rise so steeply, sometimes straight from the sea with their sharp volcanic ridges vanishing into the clouds.

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The entrance to the harbour at Mindelo

A typical streetscape of Mindelo

The city of Mindelo is not as European as the Canary Islands. More African in style. 
The Covid pandemic had already hit hard here. There were very few travellers passing through here now so several major hotel and resort developments near the harbour had ceased mid project and their workers were jobless and on the streets, The island also hadn't had rain in three years and this meant that both food and water had to come from other Cape Verde islands or from Africa coast at a cost. It was sad but understandable to see that the people here lacked the bright sparkle in their eyes we would see in the villages around the rest island and even sadder for us to be told that we shouldn't wander through the city at night by themselves.

We were busy again readying the boat for the main event - the crossing of the Atlantic to the Caribbean. While most yachts do the 4,000 kilometre crossing in two to four weeks it is not uncommon for it to take six weeks or longer so every nook and cranny of our 42 foot yacht needed to be packed with food, water and fuel - enough to cope with a lengthy trip. Every piece of equipment needed maintenance and testing as well as making sure there were replacements and spare parts. Busy! Finally everything was coming together so we had just enough time to hire a guide for the afternoon to explore the island.

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Spectacular views as we headed up to peak of Mount Verde

Views of the city of Mindelo and Ponta do Morro Branco from the little tea plantation near the top of  Mount Verde

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The collapse of tourism from Covid and the downturn in the economy, particularly on the port city of Mindelo, hadn't effected the majesty of the island's landscape though. Mount Verde rises steeply to 700m above the surrounding sea and into the clouds. The views are spectacular and at the top there is a tea shop! 

This man makes a two hour walk up the mountain, tends to his tea plants and tea shop in the clouds and then makes the long walk back home... every day! He has made 'sails' of shadecloth to harvest water from the clouds as they scrape over the mountain and uses this to make tea for visitors and water the plants.

'Tea Man' creating some new gardens for tea plants on Mount Verde

For a guy who prefers cooler climates to that of the tropics it was wonderful for me to be up on the mountain where the air was cool and dry but eventually it was time to head down Mount Verde and see more of the island. 

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Stonework on the wall of the Mount Verde teahouse

Salamansa is a village by the coast on the north side of the island. On the map it is not far from the city of Mindelo but there is a rugged mountain with only one rough road directly between them. Our guide preferred to take the better road around the range. The beach at Salamansa is a spectacular and very popular with kiteboarders.

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Martian-like landscape near the village of Salamansa

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A beach bar with one of its few patrons during Covid  

In the city of Mindelo the impact of the pandemic seemed very apparent on the faces of the people - a sense of stress and depression. Here in Salamansa the troubles of the world seemed very far away. The people were going about days as usual, a smile and wave to us as we went past, music spilling from the doorways, and children playing on the street. These two characters walking along arm-in-arm, smiling and laughing embodied the relaxed cheerfulness of this village.
Further around the coast was a quieter but perhaps more colourful town.

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Lollipop wielding children of the village singing and laughing as we pass

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A volcanic dome is the dramatic backdrop to the village and fishing boats

Baía das Gatas is a delightful and colourful village set between the sea and the beautiful but harsh landscape of a volcanic dome. A recent earthquake reshaped this dome by causing sections of its sides to collapse and slide creating fantastic pattern of colours.

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 A Baía das Gatas fisherman sorts his catch

After two very busy weeks of boat repairs and maintenance, stocking and stowing of supplies, and our six rough days at sea coming from Canary to Cape Verde island these few hours of relaxation and the awesome scenery of Cape Verde were a wonderful treat, It helped to clear our heads and just enjoy our time together before setting off the follow day for the 'main event' - Crossing the Atlantic. 

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The remarkable colours of the volcanic dome landslides 

The colours of the volcanic dome were only outdone by the colours of the fishing boats and houses of the town 

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The bold colours and architecture of the town

Sailing - Crossing the Atlantic

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I haven't introduced the amazing team yet.... (L to R) Janne, Anette (Captain), me and Christer (Captain). Haha... yes, two lovely captains! 

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Possibly the single greatest challenge of sailing across an ocean is the personal relationships onboard and the morale.  It is not surprising that the history of sailing ships crossing the oceans are dotted with mutinies and unrest. There are many stressful unknowns such as whether the crossing will take two weeks or two

months for example. There is being thrown violently around the deck, or worse, the cramped quarters below deck, 24 hours a day for weeks on end, living on food rations, sleep deprivation and managing times of prolonged boredom punctuated with times of frantic action. Many, or most yachts, crossing the Atlantic end up having some personnel issues onboard, some quite serious. 

Fortunately most of our the crew, three Swedes and an Aussie (me!), have known each other for over 25 years and most, except me, have sailed together frequently particularly over the last 5 years. We knew each other's strengths and weaknesses and we have a diverse range of skills that we hoped could tackle any ordeal.

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Our good ship was called Modesty, a Moody 42 (42 foot), and we set off late one morning from Cape Verde to start our Atlantic Crossing with great friends onboard our buddy boat, Skyline captained by Klas.

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Our 'buddy boat' Skyline as we leave Cape Verde

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Setting the spinnaker as we turn westward to cross the Atlantic

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It is a

strange feeling

to leave land behind

knowing that you will soon

be in a big empty ocean, not knowing what weather you will

encounter, how long it will be before you see land again, and whether you are going to be able to cope with the experience.

Amazing landscape of Cape Verde - magnificent last sight of land before acrossing the Atlantic 

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We follow Skyline westward towards the Caribbean into a sea made molten silver by the bright afternoon sun

You might expect that with the crossing of the Atlantic being at the centre of expedition that I will have taken loads photos of this stage. However while the lovely curves of the white sails and colourful spinnaker against clear sky that goes from horizon to horizon uninterrupted in every direction is stunning, and the boat cutting through the deep blue sea, swell and waves creating pure white wash on either side of the boat to trail behind us was beautiful and mesmerising, this was same for almost all of the crossing. There is no land to sight, very few cargo ships to be wary of, no other yachts other than our buddy boat Skyline, no dolphins or whales appeared, and even sea birds were very few and far between. In fact, the only wildlife we would see for days on end sometimes was flying fish who would appear out of the water in large large clouds of shimmering silver schools to fly ten or twenty metres before ploughing in to the face of the rising swell. At other times they would come crashing into the boat or us, and sometimes at night. It is a strange feeling to be suddenly punched in the arm by something wet, smelly and slimy (and flying fish all these things!) in the dark while admiring the moon. 

 

So while being an amazing experience, photographically, the actual crossing itself was not the highlight of this expedition... except for some lovely sun rises and sets!

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With nothing to hide the horizon, sunsets and sunrises were many, varied and beautiful shows

After just seven days we were there... Mid Atlantic. Almost 2,000 kilometres in either direct to land and 7 kilometres of ocean below us. It amused me in a time when the new global buzzwords was "Social Distancing" that we were in one of the remotest parts of the world and we were closer to the astronauts in the International Space Station flying 400 kilometres above us every 90 minutes than to almost all the other 8 million people on the planet.

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We celebrated arriving in the mid Atlantic at midnight with champagne and a light supper under moonlit skies. Some of us realised their dream of eating Sill (Swedish marinated herring) in Mid Atlantic while others with good taste refrained. 

​

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Taking out champagne for Halfway celebrations

Surprisingly, moon photos are great at sea. The air is clear & the moon so bright for short exposures

The moon darting between clouds mid Atlantic

The next morning the wind was very light so we were able to bring Modesty to a halt and those who dreamed of taking a swim in Mid Atlantic took the plunge.

​

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The captain taking a dive in Mid Atlantic (photo by Christer)

Little did we know that joyous morning would mark the start of the toughest part of journey.

Mid Atlantic swim (photo by Christer)

When you make it to the centre of the Atlantic in seven days it is easy to start imagining that you will reach the restaurants and bars of the beautiful Caribbean Islands in just seven more days. However the reliable trade winds that Columbus found from Cape Verde to the Caribbean aren't THAT reliable. So started days of bobbing up and down on the swell with no wind... becalmed. The term 'doldrum', meaning to be depressed, accurately has been given to areas of little wind which can leave sailing ships stranded for weeks or months. Technically we were not in that area of the Atlantic but The Doldrums nevertheless quite accurately describes our condition at the time. The worst part is not knowing whether the wind will resume the next day or in a month while you deplete your supplies.  

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" Day after day, day after day,
  We stuck, nor breath nor motion;
  As idle as a painted ship
  Upon a painted ocean. "

 

The Rime of the Ancient Mariner, Coleridge

Painted sea - seaweed drifting by our becalmed boat (photo by Christer)

We checked new weather data as it came in and tried with the little wind and currents we had to position ourselves to wherever there was a possibility for a few more knots of wind but it seemed all to no avail. The next data would show those winds had shifted unexpectedly to the north, south, east or west... wherever we were not. It was looking like we could get 'bogged' here, almost in the middle of the Atlantic, for who knows how long...

 

 

​

We were lucky though!!

 

After four days the wind gradually picked up. Morale onboard the good ship Modest never sunk seriously low but it was an interesting insight into the psychology of coping with unknowns under these conditions. For now though, we were back on our way! 

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Modesty rigged in 'butterfly' style

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A small rather beautiful little squall with its rain shadow 

We even started chasing squalls, mini intense rainstorms, like that show above. You wanted to avoid the rainy centre of these where you would get soaked and the windy is light and messy but if you sailed very close to these squalls the boat could get a boost of wind three or four times stronger than that of the surrounding area. We could see these squalls on our radar and the captains became experts at 'surfing' them.

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We were almost across to the Caribbean when we discovered our propeller wasn't working. The propeller had become detached from the shaft. We hadn't used the motor most of the trip so as to conserve fuel supplies in case of an emergency therefore we hadn't discovered the issue earlier. 

 

We had a meeting to discuss our options... We were about two days sail to our intended destination, St Vincent, and one day out from Barbados if we made a small diversion. The propeller isn't very important when you are in open seas with a reasonable wind but when you move into a harbour,

as we were planning in the next couple of days.

It can be difficult to accurately manoeuvre 

and moor while under sail. We had the choice

then to stop at Barbados for repairs or to push on to St Vincent. We decided to push on to St Vincent but sail close to Barbados while checking the weather forecast constantly. If the weather looked unsuitable to push on to St Vincent then we could pull into Barbados instead.

White-Tailed Tropicbird, a favourite bird I have seen in a few parts of the world, They are delightfully curious birds.

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Land ahoy!!

The excitement of this phrase heard in so many historical seafaring programs and movies can't be underestimated in real life. I can't recall now when I come to write this whether we saw land - Barbados - or the Covid 'mothballed' cruise ships moored off her coast first but I do remember staring dreamily at the lush green of the Barbados island as we sailed by... it was the only green I had seen in weeks!  

Covid 'mothballed' cruise ships off Barbados

With our arrival in St Vincent expected the following day, that evening was spent preparing for arrival. The photo below gives the impression of despair and fear like one of those dramatical artist's scenes from the last few centuries or from an Errol Flynn movie. Alas my fellow sailor's 'despair and fear' was only a little fatigue from pumping up our inflatable dinghy so it could be used to help moor in the harbour and, later, go ashore. I could have helped them with the pumping of course but then who would have been around to take the photos? (smiley face).... and I think they were enjoying looking tragic and heroic (smiley face).

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The Tempest - George Romney, 1920

The Pumping of the Dinghy - Ashley King, 2020

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The next morning, there she was.... Our goal! 
The island of St Vincent.

We hoisted the Grenadines flag as well as a yellow flag to indicate we had come from a foreign port and therefore under quarantine.

​

A boat greeted us as we approached the port of Young Island and we moored quickly and without difficulty.

Land ahoy! Our Atlantic Crossing destination, the island of St Vincent, the Caribbean

Seventeen days!!

It had been almost exactly 17 days since we had left Cape Verde. This is a good time for our boat. The quickest we could have done it with the most favourable winds would have been probably 10 to 12 days. Internet tells me the average sailing time across the Atlantic is 3 to 4 weeks. So we had done very well. It made me laugh a little to think how tragic we felt it was when we had 4 days of no wind. . A couple of boats we know that left Cape Verde after us took 6 weeks to get across. We had been lucky!!

​

We were told at this point we had to come ashore briefly for a Covid test but then we would need to quarantine for 3 days on the boat before we could come ashore again and move around St Vincent and all the Grenadines freely. It seemed odd to have to quarantine after 17 days by ourselves at sea but it is no good arguing with these rules. 

​

So we went ashore and some couldn't help but maximising their contact with solid earth after 17 days. We took our test and returned to the boat.

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The fabulous team!... and me!

Can't get enough of this grass

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Watching Caribbean life from our quarantined boat - the bold colours and intense light of the Caribbean

Our boat was moored in a sheltered channel between the main island of St Vincent and a much smaller island called Young Island. To one side we looked across at a resort on Young Island a hundred metres away and on the other a row of restaurants and bars along the shore of St Vincent about the same distance away. After 17 days at sea it was a tough place to be quarantined for three days when we could hear the music and laughter from the bars and restaurants, and even smell the foods. Tough!

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Brown Booby eating our mast instruments

First sunrise over land in 18 days, Young Island, St Vincent

We avoided the temptation to sneak ashore James Bond tuxedo in wetsuit style under the cover of darkness and after three days we were finally FREE !!!

We had crossed the Atlantic and arrived in the Caribbean!

 

My travels through some of the islands of the Caribbean after this will be another 'Expedition' up on this website soon.

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Waiting in quarantine for 3 days in Young Island - three sunrises and sunsets - before we were free to explore the Caribbean

Summary

We discovered there was two distinct types of yachting on this trip. There is sailing a couple of days at a time along a coast or between islands from port to port and staying in each port for a few days to explore and soak up the culture and nature. And then there is ocean sailing - long trips at sea. I think we all decided the coastal cruising was much better, a nice balance of sailing and pleasures of exploring new places and cultures. Also there was much more wildlife - birds, dolphins, etc... and even a pod of pilot whales, along the coast. Nevertheless there was a huge sense of satisfaction for completing such an amazing challenge like this and there was a lot of pleasure and laughs along the way.

I didn't get to see or explore much of the Canary Island so I will have to return there one day.  The landscape of Cape Verde though with it volcanic peaks rising out of the sea almost two kilometres into the sky was spectacular.  Our brief tour of just one of the five large islands has me really looking forward to my next visit to these islands.  

Visitor & Photography Tips: 

  • I discovered photographing on a pitching and rolling boat at sea is more challenging than I had expected. It's made harder still by the need to use a least one hand to hold yourself steady. I'm not sure what the solution is exactly. I used a monopod occasionally to try to get some bird photos. It worked well when we were in calm seas but it was still difficult to keep both yourself and the monopod stable when at sea. 

  • The amazing mountains of both the Canary and Cape Verde islands provide great photographic opportunities and are great places to explore.

  • What I saw of the Canary Island was modern and European style architecture and culture. Cape Verde's was more colourful and traditional so I would recommend visiting the fishing villages around these islands

Don't forget... If you would like a print of any of the photos here let me know and I will get back to you a price based on your printing and mounting requirements.

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There were so many other things that I could have added to this tale, maybe I will sometime, but for the moment though I'll just create this list of future additions

  • The Night of the Mauritanian Green Bugs

  • Top 10 Covid Tests of the Atlantic and Caribbean

  • How to perform an emergency boat to boat yogurt transfer on the high seas

  • Janne's Jellyfish Lantern Kit

  • How to Sleep while being Bounced against Walls & Ceilings

  • 1001 Repairs to be done on a Boat

  • Janne's Thursday Pancake Special - any day we wanted

  • Do It Yourself Cupholder instructions

  • Encounters with Skyline, formerly "The Wicked Wench", and its crew of Pirates

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The End

MID ATLANTIC CHEESE SANDWICH APPENDIX: My first message to friends after crossing the Atlantic was a recipe for a cheese sandwich. It was to highlight the joy and excitement to trying to get anything done onboard a pitching and rolling boat. My friends seemed to enjoy it and were very kind with their comments so I have reprinted it here.

The Recipe for:
MID ATLANTIC CHEESE SANDWICH / MID ATLANTIC OST SMORGÅS

PREPARATION TIME: 3 days

INGREDIENTS:
- 1 slice of bread
- 10grams butter / margarine
- 30grams of pre-sliced cheese
   [Expert Tip: if you prefer to slice the cheese yourself

   add another day to the preparation time]
- 1 well-equipped first aid kit
- 1 anger management training course
- 178 page accident insurance policy with lots of fine print
- white or black pepper to taste

SERVES: 1 person, you can increase the quantity to feed others but consider the survival of the fittest

METHOD
1 We recommend you complete your insurance application and anger management course before commencing the following steps. [Expert Tip: Pay particular attention to the clauses on remote medical evacuation of your insurance policy]

2 Position yourself in the approx centre of the Mid Atlantic in a boat approx 42 feet (16 metres) in length and ensure there is an unpredictable rockiness of at least 40° from side and 20° from front to back. Preheat the kitchen to 40° Celsius (Gas Mark 3) and 90% humidity. [Expert Tip: by altering your location you can create other favourite variations like Mid Pacific Cheese Open Sandwich]

3 Now, face the plate cupboard over the benchtop. Wedge your feet under the kitchen cabinets about 2 metres apart for the best stability. Then lean your bottom firmly against the sink behind you in the narrow galley kitchen. Use your left hand to grasp frantically for anything to help stabilise you during the particular sway of the boat at that precise moment. Adjust the position of this hand every 0.4 seconds to cope with the changing boat orientation. With your right hand reach across and open the plate cupboard. Start to take out a plastic plate. Stop in time to catch the plastic cups falling from the cupboard. Then resume, more quickly, to take the plate and place it on the benchtop. Catch the plastic cups as they fall again and thrust them into the cupboard while shutting the door on your fingers. Your plate will, like some magicians trick, have vanished from where you had placed it just moments before and have reappeared half a metre away. Hopefully as you lunge to reclaim it you can maintain your balance. [Expert Tip: Don't make the common mistake of expecting that if you grab the plate firmly enough this will help with your own stability.]

4 Reposition yourself in front of the bread cupboard over the benchtop and repeat the actions of step 3 in collecting a slice of bread.

5 You should now have bread and a plate sliding around on the benchtop which you need to keep under control with one hand. At this point you realise that the butter and cheese are in the fridge and the fridge is accessed by lifting the bench top. Reverse steps 3 and 4 so as to put away the bread and plate. [Expert Tip: You may want to consider starvation.]

6 Take the usual stance for working in the kitchen. Open the bench fridge/freeze chest hatch. Being a chest it is more challenging to have things fall out but don't put this to the test. However do not fear, the chest fridge/freezer has its own challenges. Goods are stacked on top of each other in the chest and whatever you want always manages to burrow its way to the bottom in an effort to escape being eaten - quite an understandable and common attitude of most things in my experience. Therefore you must remove about 20 items from the chest to find whatever you need cowering in one of the dark corners... In this case, this is where you will find the butter/margarine and the packet of pre-sliced cheese. What makes this step so interesting is what to do with the 20 items while you are chasing the butter and cheese. I recommend the sink. This however will require a variation of the standard kitchen stance. Place each foot against the cupboards on either side of the galley. You will not be able to place your feet 2 metres apart in this position so make sure you have a firm grasp on some thin air with your left hand as you transfer things with your right hand from the chest to the sink. You can now capture your exposed butter and cheese, and start to return the other items to the chest. No need to take any trouble about the order you return them to the chest as the next item you will look for will always be in the bottom left hand corner anyway. Finally close the chest hatch making sure the butter and cheese remain on the outside.

7 Repeat steps 3 & 4

8 You should now have a plate, a slice of bread, a tub of butter and a packet of sliced cheese on the bench and you are making frequent reference to your Anger Management manual. If you have played Wack-a-Mole or have made a living from the three cup and a pea trick you will now recognise the hand actions required to keep the four items together on the benchtop.

9 Now things become a little difficult. The butter knife is in a drawer in the dining table about a metre and a half from the kitchen galley. This requires careful analysis and planning. You should allow 6 hours to do this and a further 20 seconds to execute the task excluding time for dealing with injuries. The analysis involves studying the rocking of the boat to identify patterns that you can develop detailed plans around - at what point in the rhythm of repeated patterns will you set off from the security of galley in an attempt to reach the butter knife drawer? Where will you place your feet during the mission? What is there to help stabilise you along the way and is the air viscous enough to cling to? This of course is all nonsense as there is no pattern or rhythm to the rockiness except that when you think things are at the most rockiness you will be mistaken. Nevertheless this is not an entirely fruitless exercise as the evidence of this analysis and planning will be very useful when you are questioned at the hospital by your insurance company.
Some of you might be asking why we didn't get out the butter knife before the ingredients were placed on the bench but I for one am not prepared to go against thousands of years of cultural norms.
So once you have utter confidence in the futility of your plan you can commence its execution. Speed is important. A joint study by MIT, Dapto Primary School Year 2 French Class and the Kungsbacka Junior Lucia Girls Choir recently concluded that going slowly and cautiously had no statically noticeable bearing on the success of the mission or a reduction to the amount, or severity, of injuries. Further, the study found that the faster this action was performed the greater the odds are that the items you leave behind on the bench top will still be somewhere in the kitchen. [Expert Tip: a plastic (reusable of course) butter knife will reduce the risk of serious injury during your return to the galley.]

10 In the unlikely event you come back from the above mission and your injuries are not substantial enough to prevent you from continuing we can now start to assemble the open sandwich. Place the bread on the plate. Fetch the tub of butter from the bathroom floor and spread a thin layer on the bread. Pull the packet of cheese slices from the gap beside the stove and add a slice of the cheese. [Expert Tip: Avoid having the cheese, or anything for that matter fall down the gap at the back of the oven as this will require the boat to be placed in dry dock for two weeks while the boat is being disassembled.] It is recommended at this point that you place the remaining butter/margarine and packet cheese slices into the rubbish/trash bin so as to avoid that whole rigmarole of having to lift the benchtop to put them back. This I admit is a short term strategy but at the time you will not care.

11 Add white or black pepper to taste.

12 You now have your Mid Atlantic Cheese Open Sandwich and a range of injuries from life threatening to bruising to 30% of your body. After all that effort you deserve to sit down somewhere calm and comfortable and enjoy your sandwich. You may well deserve this but that doesn't mean that you will get it unfortunately.

Up on deck it is 10 degrees Celsius cooler and much less humid so it would seem to be the obvious place to head.... Except for the little matter of a 2 metre ladder to negotiate. You may have heard it said that ladders are one of the highest causes of serious injury. The peeps that say that obviously aren't referring to a ladder on a boat in the middle of the Atlantic during 4 metre swells. This is not classed as dangerous but as suicidal so check your insurance policy to make sure you are covered. If not just slide down onto the kitchen floor and eat your delightful sandwich there. If you're covered, proceed...

You will need all three arms free to accomplish this task so we recommend that the first thing you do is to reach up and place the plate with the sandwich on the upper deck. Make sure the boat is swaying more wildly and unpredictably than usual so that when you have the plate over your head the cheese sandwich will slide off the plate, separate into all of its component parts, and each component, including the pepper, ends up on different steps of the ladder after sliding across your face and arms. Take time to marvel at how much surface area 10 grams of butter can cover.... your face and arms as well as several steps on the ladder. Now collect all the pieces. [Expert Tip: use the cheese to wipe up the pepper] and put them together on the plate without regard as to their order or appearance. Throw the plate and what we now still loosely refer to as a sandwich onto the deck together with your Anger Management Manual.

Hopefully on about the third attempt you will succeed in climbing the buttery ladder with your buttery hands. Assuming you have not obtained any further internal injuries you can now relax in the fresh air and savour your Mid Atlantic Cheese Open Sandwich hoping you get through it before being struck in the face by a Flying Fish.

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